Heads & Tales: Zen and the Art of Dining

This evening in New York would cement the pace and tone for the rest of my stay in New York...

Meet more food bloggers, try out another Greek restaurant in Manhattan and enjoy the array of wines available to the discerning diner.

Through my contacts at the Pavlou Winery, I was fortunate to be given the opportunity to explore the Greek food scene in New York through the eyes and stomach of Konstantine Drougos.

Konstantine distributes many fine Greek wines around NYC and he is familiar with the food scene and he was delighted to meet up and explore all the wonderful Greek food on offer in New York.

As an added bonus, this evening I was also to be graced by the hilarious, charming and Ace in the Kitchen, Stephane of Chef's Gone Wild and ever charming and lovable Claire of Colloquial Cookin'.

Both had expressed their desire to learn & sample more Greek food and I did not hesitate to invite them over for some Greek food & wine.

Claire was the first to arrive, big smile, ice blue eyes and very open...she came up and introduced herself as Konstantine and Stephane were late (notorious habit of Greeks and French).

The venue for the the evening's festivities was Kellari (cellar in Greek) and the hostess and manager made us feel very comfortable in an informal seating of a sofa, table and chairs.

What was to follow was an evening of making and cementing new friendships, sharing in some wonderful Greek food, paired with wines recommended by the expert himself, Konstantine.

From the moment I walked into the door of Kellari, I was going to enjoy this place. An array of Greek cookies was on offer at the bar along with platters of Greek olives.

We ordered some Pavlou P62 Xinomavro to wash down the array of appetizers that was to ensue:

First up was the Keftedes (meatballs) in a wine & tomato sauce that was very reminscent of Soutzoukakia Smyrneika. Next to arrive at our table was some of the most tender braised and grilled octopus I've ever had.

An interesting arrival of lamb riblets has us all licking our fingers and to help balance out our meal, we ordered some braised Fasolakia (runner beans in a tomato sauce) and some crispy fried zucchini and eggplants.

As Claire and Stephane were relatively Greek food virgins, a dessert course couldn't be ignored. We agreed to an order of Loukamades which had a lovely undertone of Mastic and drizzled with a Greek honey/syrup. A Greek dessert is not complete without an array of fruits and some well-strained Greek yogurt with a dollop of sour cherry spoon sweet.

Konstantine affirmed his good taste in Greek food by taking us to Kellari first. This was a classy place but that laid-back, Greek hospitality was present, Greek music playing in the background and well-executed Greek food arriving before our hungry eyes.

In the coming days, you'll see more of Claire, Stephane and Konstatine as I continue my gastromic tour of New York City. If you're in New York, I highly recommend stopping by Kellari for a dinner and some wonderful Greek wine.

Kellari's website by-line sums up the evening perfectly:

"enter as strangers and leave as friends".

Allow me to leave you with a recipe for a much-loved Greek dish, Soutzoukakia Smyrneika (which are similar to Kellari's meatballs). This dish can be served up as an appetizer or made into a main course with some fries or rice pilaf.


Soutzokakia Smyrneika
(serves 4)

1 lb. of ground beef
2 cloves of minced garlic
2 slices of stale bread
1 egg
1 tsp. of ground cumin
1 tsp. dried Greek oregano
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
4 Tbsp. of olive oil + extra for shallow frying
salt and pepper to taste
all-purpose flour

For the Sauce
1 onion, grated
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 cups of tomato juice
1 Tbsp. of tomato paste, dilluted in water
1 bay leaf
2 tsp. of sweet paprika
1/2 cup of dry red wine
1/4 cup olive oil
2 pads of unsalted butter
1 small cinnamon stick
pinch of sugar
salt and pepper to taste

1. Soak the bread in a bowl of water and when it's soft, remove the crust. Squeeze it in your hands to remove the excess liquid. Add to another bowl with your ground beef and the other meatball ingredients. Knead the meat mixture with your hands to blend and fry off a small piece to sample and in the end, adjust the seasoning of your Soutzoukakia.
2. Mould the mixture into little quenelle or oblong hamburgers and dredge lightly in some flour and fry them off in hot oil. Set aside and reserve.
3. In the same skillet, add the olive oil and butter along with the onions and garlic and saute for a few minutes or until the onions have softened (about 5 minutes). Add the wine and reduce for a couple of minutes and then add the dilluted tomato paste + tomato juice and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium an simmer for for about 15 minutes or until thew sauce has thickened.
4. Carefully add the Soutzoukakia into the sauce and move the pot around in a circular motion to coat and warm the meatballs through. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper (plus sugar if needed).
   
5. Serve alone as part of an array of appetizers or for main with rice, noodles or fries.
   

Heads &Tales: Astoria By day and Molyvos at Night

After my big night on the town in New York with a long-awaited arrival in my bed at 4:30am, Sunday greeted me all too quickly and despite the lack of sleep (early riser here) I was determined to continue my tour of New York.

One of my curiosities was to visit Astoria. It's known as New York's Greektown and the Greek population of the New York City area is rivaled only by that of Melbourne, Australia.

My goal was to see if the Greeks in Astoria had a larger availability of Greek products than what I can find in Toronto's Greektown (Danforth) and to conduct some quick price comparisons.
By and large, Toronto has all that New York offers by way of Greek products, some prices in New York were cheaper but nothing was really out of whack pricewise and, I breathed a sigh of relief (many Greeks in Toronto feel they pay exorbitant prices).

I felt very much at "home" in Astoria, walking among my peeps, chatting with shop owners in Greek and feeling comfort that Greece does exist beyond it's geographical borders. Hellenism is an ideal.

Fast forward to Sunday night and I didn't have any firm plans with anybody but hey, I'm a big guy and I can handle myself in the city. Armed with my New York City guide, I flipped through the dining pages and found some Greek restaurants I've been meaning to try out.

Tonight Molyvos was on the dance card. I assume the restaurant got it's name from a town of the Greek island of Mytilini (Lesvos) and the restaurant has been around for years and despite my dining on a Sunday, business at this centrally located eatery was brisk.

Jim Botsacos is the chef and partner and somewhat of a media darling when it comes to Greek cooking in the media. One only has to Google this fellow to see that this guy gets around.

Upon entering Molyvos, one is put to ease with the warm, dark wooded decor and you're immediately greeted and seated by the hostess.

The service here is prompt, efficient and one never gets the sense that they are being rushed. I was given a wine menu, an appetizer/meze menu and a dinner menu...all on offer on this cool New York City night.

For starters, I opted for a glass of Babatzim Ouzo with ice and I was given some complementary Roasted Red Pepper Dip to hold me until my orders arrived.

I opted to try their "Garides Saganaki" which was refreshingly different from the way I serve it. The Molyvos approach to the Greek classic was to (of course) serve it in a two-handles Saganaki vessel but the sauce was more of a broth than a thick, tomato sauce.

The use of butter and olive oil was obvious, diced tomatoes, some chillis rounded out the sauce and the 'must have' shrimp and feta finished off the dish. This "take" on Garides Saganaki was a pleasant surprise as the addition of Greek basil was the star heb (usually oregano).

For my entree, I chose the skate wing with pastourma and a walnut avgolemeno with a bed of rice pilaf. The skate wing was pan fried, a bit of corn meal was detected in the crust and the thins slice of pastourma sandwiched between the two skate wing pieces gave the dish a wonderful and earthy taste.

My dinner was enjoyed with a pairing of a white Assyrtiko from the island of Santorini and it also paired well with my dessert. I capped the evening with a well-made Greek coffee (made by a non-Greek) and served with their Revani with kumquat preserve and whipped cinnamon cream.

Molyvos delivered value for money (I was actually full), the service prompt and courteous and they offered some nice twists to Greek cuisine without alienating it.

Once again, the highlight for me was the Garides Saganki and if you want to see my usual approach, have a look here but if you want the Molyvos-inspired version...here's my take on a bread-dipping heavens-to-goodness Garides (shrimp) Saganaki.

Molyvos Inspired Garides Saganaki
(serves 4)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 pads of unsalted butter
1/4 cup diced onions
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 hot chilli
1 pint of roasted cherry tomatoes
(halved)
1 small red pepper, diced (1/3 cup) 1/4 cup dry white wine
1 to 1 1/2 lbs. of shrimp, peeled & deveined
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp. dry Greek Oregano
1 shot of Ouzo
a few leaves of Greek basil
1 cup of Greek feta, cubed
salt to taste
extra-virgin olive oil

1. In a saucepan, add your oilve oil and butter and over medium-high heat, add your onions, garlic and peppers and saute for a minute or two then reduce to medium and simmer for another 5 minutes or until the onions have softened. Now add the wine and tomatoes and bring to a boil and then reduce back to a simmer and cook for another 5-7 minutes.
2. Take off the heat, adjust seasoning (very little salt needed as Feta will finish the dish), add your Ouzo, parsley and oregano and stir in.
3. Set your oven to the Broiler setting and begin assembling your Saganaki vessels for baking. Using a ladle, pour the sauce equally into each baking vessel and then divide the shrimp into each serving. Top each serving with the cubes of feta and place under the broiler for about 5 minutes or until the the shrimp have turned pink and your cheese is golden.
4. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and place some basil leaves in each bowl and serve with some wedges of pita bread.
   

Heads & Tales: Saturday Night at Ammos

Saturday would be my first full day in New York. In any city a Saturday is going to be exciting but in New York, we're talking electric.

The day started off with myself making my usual fry-up of bacon & eggs, toast, juice and coffee. Soon after, I headed out and took the train to the bottom of Manhattan and paid hommage to the site of Ground Zero.

Security was very tight with respect to people taking photos and the property was fenced off and covered by a green tarp to block any decent photos from beingt taken. The most logical explanation I heard was that the World Trade Center was being rebulit and that the location of safes & storage is what security was trying to protect. Any other theories out there?

The rest of the day was spent exploring TriBeCa (Triangle Below Canal), Greenwich Village and Chelsea. I have been to all three of these neighborhoods before but one new attraction was the Chelsea market.

It's a converted warehouse that's turned into a long market with many shops catering to food enthusiasts and it also houses some office space, including the operations of the Food Network.

The late afternoon saw me return to my apartment, feed and walk Stiva the wonder-pooch, recharge my batteries and plot the evening ahead.

My first contact with a New York area food blogger was with Maria of "Kali Orexi". Maria is a native of Astoria who now lives in Queens and she's only just begun her Greek food blog, which translates into "bon appetit".

I left the dinner & drinks suggestions open to Maria's choosing...afterall, I was the visitor with no idea of the New York Greek food scene.

It was agreed that we'd meet at Ammos (literally translated as Sand). Ammos is located just behind Grand Central Station and for those of you who have not been to New York, a visit to the main hall is well worth the subway trip to take a few snaps, watch the hustle & bustle or perhaps even take it a drink or a bite from one of the cafes & restaurants perched atop of the hall.

I arrived early at Ammos but I was promptly greeted by Maria, her sisters and husband. As with Greeks, formal introductions melted away and we all became quite comfortable with each other as we sat down, shared in array of Greek dips and pondered what to eat for dinner.

Maria turned out to be as friendly, charming and hospitable as her blog is. I encourage you to visit her blog as she shares some wonderful Greek dishes enjoyed by her family.

Most of us chose seafood and I was pleased that much of the fish was grilled whole and as a bonus, presented to the customer de-boned.

I chose the grilled lavraki, which is also known as Loup de Mer in French. Lavraki is also known as a European sea bass, much of it is today farmed but it's a wonderful product and perfect for either baking or grilling.

After dinner, we ordered an array and desserts and shared the different offerings of Karydopita, yogurt with sour cherry spoon sweets, kataifi.

After all that food, wine and dessert...us Greeks have to burn off those calories and lucky for us, a small ensemble band was geared and ready to perform comtemporary Greek hits.

The music was loud, the liquor flowing, Greeks on their feet and dancing up a storm!

From being seated at the door to being driven home to the apartment I was staying at, Maria and her husband were most gracious hosts and I hope to soon return the gesture of their warm hospitality.

In the meantime, I'd love to share a new way that I like to grill and present sardines. Fresh caught sardines are still affordable and are one of the most enjoyed fish by Greeks.

Although they can be fried or baked, grilled sardines seem to be the favourite to prepare them. Here, I've taken the souvlaki concept and applied it to grilling sardines.

The method helps keep your fish in tact, allows you to easily flip the fish during grilling and the presentation is no doubt an eye-opener when you're served a plate of these beauties.

As always, I prefer buying whole fish as this allows me to inspect the fish and confirm it's freshness (bright- not-sunken eyes, firm body, bright red inner gills and smelling only of the sea).

I was delighted to see fresh sardines being sold through much of New York City and I hope some fish mongers in Toronto are paying attention: WE NEED MORE FRESH SARDINES!

There's no rocket-science here. The sardines are scaled and gutted, heads left on (to help secure the skewers) and the fish is brushed with vegetable oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and adorned simply and deliciously with a Latholemono.

Pre-heat your gas grill, brush(clean) your grill surface well, wipe the grill surface with some vegetable oil and grill your fish.

Sardines take a mere two or three minutes a side and a warm potato salad and some sauteed bitter greens round out this wonderful Greek seafood dish.

Kali Orexi!

Heads & Tales: Eating and Drinking My Way Through New York

I'm back home in Toronto after a thrilling week in New York City spent exploring this great city, meeting new friends and eating and drinking up all along the way. The opportunity to stay in New York City (affordably) is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and I savoured each of my days in the Big Apple.

A few weeks ago while I was on Twitter and reading my friends' updates, did I perk up and read of an offer to stay in New York with the mere caveat of tending to someone's dog in their absence.

Personal Chef Mark Tafoya of the Remarkable Palate was the fellow who extended his generosity to me by offering up his home for the week and allowing me to explore New York in leisurely seven days.

The only "catch" was that I had to watch his doggy, Stiva during his absence. Mark was also the bearer of good fortune by receiving an invite to attend a food blogging forum in Indonesia. This arrangement proved to be a "win-win" for both Mark and myself.

I would like to thank Mark for his immense generosity and for giving me the week in New York that filled me with fond memories of the city, meeting new friends and enjoying some great food and drink during my stay.

Of the course of the next few days, I'm going to share with you my experiences and cooking inspiration triggered by my glorious trip to New York - enjoy!

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I arrived in New York City on an overcast afternoon that was unseasonally mild and rainy. After settling in to the apartment, I bought some groceries, plotted my week ahead in New York and set out immediately on Friday night to explore the city.

First stop? Times Square. This "crossroads of America" still thrills me with all the lights, the many people who come here from all around the world and the sheer energy of it all.

Although New York City and Times Square are safer than ever, I got this sense of "Disney New York", what with the big-name stores all around and the presence of families and children all around.

I felt a little like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and her famous line, "this don't look like Kansas, Toto"!

Traveling through New York is best done by subway...it's cheap, it's serviced well by a vast train and bus infrastructure and once is always entertained....take a look at the breakdancing!

Friday night was pretty mellow and it was more about getting my bearings straight, learning the subway system and resting up for a busy week ahead. I'll be writing about each of my days in New York in the coming days and more photos will be uploaded in my Facebook profile.

If you're a Facebook member, look for me and view all my photos of New York along the way (there's a Facebook link on the right column of my blog) and if you're not...what are you waiting for?

In the meantime, sit back and let me make you a Greek coffee. For those not in the know, a Greek coffee is brewed in a small briki which is filled with a demi-tasse measurement of water, finely ground roasted coffee and sugar to taste is added to the mix.

The coffee is then brewed on the stovetop (over a watchful eye) and as soon as the coffee is a bout to come to a boil, the briki is quickly removed and the coffee is poured into the demi-tasse cup.

One accompaniment with a Greek coffee is a paximadi and the other favourite of mine are Koulourakia.

Koulourakia are a twisted butter cookie which are easy to make, not expensive, last long in storage and yes...wonderful for dunking in coffee.

There are many small variances to the Koulourakia recipe but this is our family's and naturally, my favourite.

Get a pen and paper and jot down these easy instructions on how to make Greek Koulourakia...

Koulourakia (κουλουράκια)

1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup shortening (Crisco)
1/2 cup vegetable oil
3 eggs
1/2 cup warm milk
1/2 shot of Ouzo
2 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 1/2 cups of flour
eggwash
sesame seeds

Pre-heated 350F oven

1. Add the butter, shortening and sugar in a bowl and cream together with your hand mixer. Now slowly add the oil and continue to cream.
2. Add eggs one at a time and continue mixing. Now add the milk and Ouzo and again mix until incorporated.
3. Sift your dry ingredients and add the dry to wet ingredients (use your hands to incorporate the mixture). Your dough should be very soft.
4. Form the twists but pinching a piece of dough about the size of a walnut. Now roll out with your hand and then fold in half and twist into form. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and repeat until all the dough has been formed into Koulourakia.
5. Whisk an egg with some milk and brush the cookies with eggwash and sprinkle each cookie with some sesame seeds.
6. Bake in a pre-heated 350F oven (middle rack) for about 10-15 minutes or until golden. Carefully remove the cookies from the baking trays and allow to cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

Miskotini With Feta

I've been enjoying Greek-made pasta of late. The folks at Misko who make an array of pasta were kind enough to send me samples of their Greek pasta varieties.

Most Greeks will acknowledge we didn't invent pasta but most Greeks will assure you (and demonstrate if you like) their love of eating pasta.

I'll be heading off to New York City tomorrow but upon my return, I plan to showcase some more Greek pasta dishes. We have noodles from Asia, everyone loves Italian pasta, the Spanish have been enjoying in for ages and the Greeks round-out the roster with age-old dishes, enjoyed by generations.

One such combo is a simple delight of eating pasta with Feta cheese. I can remember my mom boiling some spaghetti, browning some butter and finishing the dish off with some crumbled feta.

I'd assume most Greek families enjoy this quick, easy and delicious dish and yes, it's been done for awhile...for as long as feta has existed.

For anyone who's bought a large quantity of feta, you'll know that crumbled pieces of Feta are usually to be found at the bottom, when you've reached your last slab of cheese.

With Greeks pursuit to "waste not - want not"...even those lonely last remaining feta pieces get consumed...for pasta with Feta!

You may certainly crumble your own Feta to make this easy dish but this is a frugal dish that stretches the ingredients boundaries...using those last bits of feta at the bottom.

The most common approach to this dish is browning some butter, adding the cooked spaghetti in to the skillet and tossing the crumbled Feta which slightly melts and coats the pasta with Feta goodness.

Here, I've upped the ante by adding some roasted garlic, cream, black pepper, parsley and some Greek oregano into the mix.

As soon as you toss the ingredients into the boiled pasta and smell the aroma from the skillet, you'll know this is a winner!

Miskotini With Feta
(serves 4)

500 gr. packet of Miskotini pasta
4 cloves of roasted garlic
approx. 200gr. crumbled Feta
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp. dried Greek oregano
salt and pepper to taste
some reserved pasta water

1. Get a large pot of water to boil. Add a good amount of salt and cook your pasta according to package instructions.
2. In a small saucepan or "briki", add your cream and roasted garlic and mash it into the cream. Add the crumbled Feta and over medium low heat, stir until most of the cheese has melted and melded into the cream. Turn heat off and keep warm.
3. When your pasta is cooked, reserve some pasta water and drain the pasta. Pour the pasta back into the pot, add the Feta/cream mixture and toss to coat. If the sauce is too dry, add some pasta water.
4. Now continue to toss by adding the chopped fresh parsley and dried Greek oregano and adjust seasoning with some ground black pepper (salt rarely needed).
5. Serve immediately.
   

Oven Baked Sole With Chickpeas

One of the facets of Greek cooking that I love is that it's so versatile. It touches upon vegetables, fruits, poultry, meats and mince, seafood, legumes, grains and pasta.

Greek food relies on herbs to flavour dishes, and an array of spices. Greek food can be complex and it can be easy.

This fish dish is a perfect of example of quality ingredients, prepared simply to highlight the freshness and to maximize flavour.

Today, I'm giving you more tastes of the Aegean, in particular the Cycladic islands of Syros and Sifnos. Syros is an island I've visited in previous travels to Greece and Sifnos was most recently visited this past summer.

This recipe for baked sole comes from Syros and the feature fish is sole, seasoned and baked simply with olive oil, lemon juice, Capers and dill.

The side dish highlights Sifnos' beloved use of chickpeas and here, I've baked them with bay, onions, garlic and cherry tomatoes.

This combo makes a perfect weeknight dish as the ingredients are readily available at the market.

The prep is quick, both main and side dish can be thrown in the oven.
Go change into something more comfortable, open the mail, open a bottle of wine and set the table.

Now your oven baked sole with chick peas is ready to be served. Don't hesitate to break some crusty bread and mop-up the olive oil and sauce in your plate.

Oven Baked Sole
(serves 4)

4 fillets of sole
1/2 cup olive oil
4 Tbsp. of capers, drained
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
salt and pepper

Baked Chickpeas
1 can of chickpeas, drained
1/3 cup water
1 medium onion, sliced
1/2 pint of cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heated 375F oven

1. Rinse and pat-dry your fillets. Thirty minutes before baking, season the fillets with salt and let them sit.
2. For the Baked Chickpeas, in a baking vessel, add all the chickpeas ingredients together and toss well. Place in the oven and they should take about 1 hour and be ready when you fillets of sole are also done.
   
3. Place your fillets on an oiled baking sheet, pour the oil, lemon juice, dill and capers over the fillets. Bake for 30 minutes and serve warm with a lemon wedge.

Pork Chops "Krasates" (Χοιρινές Μπριζόλες Κρασάτες )

When I'm in Thessaloniki, one of my favourite places to eat is at the "Kourdisto Gourouni" or Wind-Up Pig.

This Greek brasserie is located in the Square of Agia Sophia and they've been serving up delicious Greek food that's innovative yet stays true to tradition.

This dish is inspired by a Kourdisto Gourouni dish I had with a veal fillet and another dish my mom prepared for me this past summer in Greece.

What you need here are some juicy pork chops (nothing too lean), good dry white wine, some stock, olive oil, squeeze of lemon juice, dried Greek oregano and plump green olives.

As much as I love grilling outdoors, those first cold days of autumn when winter bites yours ears are here. A dish like this satisfies my need for meat and it transports me back to Thessaloniki, one of the best cities in Greece to dine in.

Go out and get some meaty pork chops, some fat content on them (so they don't dry out), a large skillet and a good bottle of dry Greek wine.

Tsantali Makedonikos works wonderfully here and you can be transported to an outdoor table, sitting in front of the taverna, sipping wine, people watching and eating down home Greek food.


Pork Chops "Krasates" (Χοιρινές Μπριζόλες Κρασάτες )
(serves 4)

4 bone-in pork chops
salt & pepper
2 tsp. sweet paprika
flour for dredging
1/4 cup olive oil
2/3 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken/vegetable stock
2 bay leaves
6-8 large green olives, pitted & chopped
juice of 1/2 lemon
4 tsp. dry Greek oregano

1. Rinse and pat-dry your pork chops. Place about a cup of flour into a plate and season with salt and pepper and the paprika. Mix with a fork and taste and adjust seasoning. Dredge your pork chops in the seasoned flour and set aside.
   
2. Place a large skillet on your stovetop over medium-high heat. Add your olive oil and sprinkle some flour to test if the oil is hot enough. Place your chops in the skillet and brown both sides of your chops, about 2-3 minutes per side and then remove and reserve.
   
3. Now reduce your heat to medium and add your wine, stock and bay leaves and simmer while scraping up the brown bits for 2-3 minutes. Place your pork chops back in the skillet and cover. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes or until the chops are tender and the sauce has reduced to half.
4. Add the chopped green olives, the lemon juice and Greek oregano and swirl to incorporate. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, remove the bay leaves and serve.
5. I paired this dish with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed oyster mushrooms.
   

Doing the Big Apple

I'm going to New York City! Yes...it's been quite a few years and I'll be visiting the Big Apple next week and I'll be spending one glorious week there.

For those that haven't been to New York, bump your travel itinerary up to include a visit to one of the world's best (if not best) cities in the world.

New York is multi-cultural, it's hospitable, quite safe for a city of it's size, culturally vibrant, beautiful, a food lovers paradise and full of energy.

I'll never forget the first time I landed in New York: it was night and I never before had seen a city lit up so brightly by lights. Maybe it's just me but my body is constantly a'rush from adrenalin, being in the action, amid so many people and feeling the pulse of this great city.

While in New York, I'm going to further explore the city and many of it's storied neighborhoods, check out the Greektown in Astoria, the exciting restaurants that are part of the "new wave" of Greek cuisine and with some good fortune, meet some fellow food bloggers who live in the New York City area.

If you're in the area, contact me via email and I'd love to meet you ...this would be a highlight of my trip!

Since we're on the topic of the Big Apple, I made a elegant dessert using quince. Us Greeks call quince "Kydonia" and the French call them Pommes de Cydon.

Quince look like an rugged apple and the flesh is quite firm - not edible raw. Quince are used in sweet and savory cooking and it's often paired with pork or made into a preserve or this case, poached.

The first attraction one has to quince is it's aroma. One only needs to walk past a tree of ripe quince or pass a fruit stand to know that some quince are nearby.

Plutarch reports that a Greek bride would nibble a quince to perfume her kiss before entering the bridal chamber, "in order that the first greeting may not be disagreeable nor unpleasant" (Roman Questions 3.65).

Inspration for this dish came from Angela's Food Love. About a month ago she shared a poached pear dish that immediately made me perk up and bookmark this dish. Angela usually posts one dish per week and each and everytime I get notice of her dish, I'm never disappointed, often delighted. I encourage you to visit Angela's blog...tell her "Kalofagas" sent ya!

Taking inspiration from Angela's dish, I applied some Greek ingredients (including quince) and poached it an aromatic bath of Greek red wine, spices and I made a mixture of strained Greek yogurt, Manouri cheese and honey and piped it into the center.

The photo is self-explanatory...the dessert was a hit!

Poached Quince With Manouri
(serves 4)

1 bottle of good Greek red wine
4 quince, peeled and cored
1 cinnamon stick
4-5 whole cloves
1/2 cup Petimezi
1/2 cup honey
splash of vanilla extract


Manouri Filling
8 oz. of room temperature Manouri cheese
1 cup strained Greek yogurt
3 Tbsp. of Greek honey
1 shot of Ouzo

1. Into a pot large enough to hold your quince, add all the ingredients of your poaching liquid and bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer and gently drop your quince and poach your quince for about 20-30 minutes or until fork tender (you may have to flip your quince to poach both halves).
2. Carefully remove the quince from the poaching liquid, strain the the liquid to remove the spices and return to your pot. Reduce over medium heat until you have a thick syrup. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
3. In a small bowl, add the Manouri cheese, strained Greek yogurt, Ouzo and honey and mix well with a spatula or a hand mixer. Spoon the contents into a piping bag or make your own with a disposable plastic bag and snip a small hole in one of the bottom corners.
4. Assemble your dessert by spooning the wine syrup onto the plate's bottom and then set the quince on top. Now pipe the Manouri filling into each hole in the middle of the quince and serve.

NOTE:

Petimezi is a syrup boiled down from the grape must during the wine harvest. Italians have a product called Saba and similar products can be found in Mid-Eastern stores called "grape syrup".

Manouri cheese is made from the whey leftover from the cheese making process. It's a young cheese that's cross between a firm ricotta and mild but still tangy cream cheese. It works wonderful for savory and sweer dishes.

Artichoke Pie (Ταβερνίσια αγκιναρόπιτα της Τήνου)

Another island in the Cyclades of Greece is Tinos. Tinos is the island just before reaching party-central Mykonos.

The contrast in vacationers that attend both islands is that of the late nights of Mykonos, loud thumping Techno & House and all-nighters and the more normal Tinos with vacationers seeking the beach, idlyllic town life, a fine taverna and it's popular religious attraction of Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary).

One of the holiest days in the Greek-Orthodox calendar is August 15th and many pilgrims visit Tinos to crawl up it's long incline of steps in hopes of being one of the blessed with a miracle from the icon of Panagia.

Tinos is also famous for it's artichokes and in keeping with the Greeks' natural ingenuity, taverna owners have come up with creative ways to showcase this local produce in an array of dishes.

I found an interesting recipe from Diane Kochilias who has written many cookbooks on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine.

She describes this dish as being inspired by the taverna owners' many renditions of their Artichoke pie. The Greek island of Kefallonia (on the Ionian side of Greece) also has their own Artichoke pie but we'll chat about that another time.

This dish stood out for me because one of the main ingredients here is bread slices. I have a feeling the origins of this dish are very peasant and in keeping with the Greek tradition of stretching your ingredients to utmost limit.

I'm sure day-old bread was used to make Artichoke Pie (you can too) but I've found that lighter, less dense bread works best here for absorbing moisture and flavour in the end result.

In this dish I used preserved, jarred artichoke hearts, some grated Graviera cheese (sheep's milk Grueyere), Bechamel sauce and some fresh thyme.

This dish is easy, great offering for a buffet, part of a light lunch or serve a wedge as a snack. It also came in handy as I was able to use up a jar of artichokes staring at me in the fridge and it hit the spot for wanting a light lunch with a salad on the side.

Artichoke Pie (Ταβερνίσια αγκιναρόπιτα της Τήνου)

a buttered 13X9X2" bakiing dish
1/4 cup olive oil
3 large onions, diced
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 large loaf of rustic bread, crust removed & cut into thick slices
2 tsp. of fresh thyme
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground black pepper
approx. dozen artichoke hearts, cut into bite-sized pieces (poached if fresh, I used jarred)
1 1/2 grated Graviera cheese (Gruyere is fine)
3 cups of Bechamel Sauce (or 1/2 of my recipe)
thyme sprigs for garnish

1. Melt the olive oil in a large skillet and add your onions and garlic and saute over medium-low heat for about 20-30 minutes or until soft and translucent. Add your fresh thyme and season with salt and pepper. Allow to cool and set aside.
2. Pre-heat your oven to 400F. Now make your Bechamel sauce as per my instructions with the 1 cup of grated Graviera and set aside and keep warm.
   
3. Spoon some Bechamel Sauce on the bottom of the baking dish and lay your first layer of bread slices. Now spoon half of your sauteed onions over the bread, followed by half the artichoke pieces, some Bechamel sauce and some grated cheese. Repeat with the remaining ingredients in the same order.
4. Bake until tender and the top is golden-brown, about 30-40 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, slice into portioned squares and serve.
   

Lobster Pasta (Αστακομακαρονάδα)

Any Greek, be it in Greece or abroad will attest that they recall growing up and eating Misko brand pasta.

Misko began making pasta in 1927 in Pireaus by the Mihailidis and Konstantinis families. To this day, Misko is the pre-eminent maker of pasta in Greece.

I've begun using Misko more often as I've found the product more readily available in the international section of my local supermarket. Oh sure, I can also head down to Toronto's Greektown for it but I could literally walk to the supermarket and pick-up a few packages of Misko.

For those living in Canada, you can find Misko at the Loblaw Superstore in your neighborhood or at at most Greek food marts selling products imported from Greece.

The same holds true for those elsewhere. If you're looking for Greek ingredients...a good place to start is in the Greektown in your city or town. Ask them for Misko.

No Greektown where you live? Surely there are Greeks living there? Greeks are everywhere! Ask a Greek where they buy their ingredients and they'll be all too glad to share their source.

Still out of luck finding some Greek ingredients? The internet is your friend. Buying something like pasta is easy and non-perishable. Pasta transports well and you have no fear of receiving a damaged, expired or spoiled product.

Again, I'm using the Misko # 5 spaghetti, the type with the hollow middle. This is the traditional pasta Greeks serve most often and it's the one I usually see used when lobster pasta is served.

If you'll recall, I've mentioned Astakomakaronada (lobster pasta) in previous posts. The first time I saw this dish being served was on Mykonos and it appears to be on menus on most of the Greek islands and on menus of finer tavernas on the mainland.

This past summer, I saw Astakomakaronada being sold by the kilo...80-90 Euros a kilo!!! Boy am I glad I tried this simple yet succulent dish in the early days when Greece's national currency was the Drachma and splurging on meals like this were easier on the wallet.

Back here in Canada, we're blessed with Atlantic lobster, usually trapped off the shores of Nova Scotia and transported live to Toronto and imported around the world.

I've been finding very affordable live lobster and when I can get it at $6.99/lb., I have no guilt in enjoying the "bug of the sea"!

Here, I have for you the authentic recipe for a Greek Astomakaronada. Transport yourself to Greece and think of days spent on the beach and evenings watching the sunset and the moon rise while the warm Aegean breeze tickles your skin.

The taverna is alive, Greeks and tourists dining together, time stands still, no worries but where to lay on the beach and what to order the next day off the next taverna down the road's menu.

Lobster Pasta (Αστακομακαρονάδα)
1 serving

1 lobster 1 to 1 1/2lbs
1 handful of Misko #5 pasta
1 pad of butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup diced red onions
1 large clove of garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. finely diced celery
2 Tbsp. finely diced carrots
1/2 cup plum tomatoes, pureed
OR 1 large ripe tomato, passed through grater
1 tsp. of tomato paste
1 small bay leaf
splash of dry white wine
splash of Metaxa (Greek brandy)
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill
pinch of ground cinnamon
salt and pepper to taste

1. Place a large pot of water on the stovetop and bring to a boil. When the water's boiling, add a good amount of salt, take your lobster out of the fridge (in the fridge they are asleep/dormant) and drop the lobster into the water, head first. Boil for 4 minutes and then blanche in cold water to stop the cooking process.
2. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, place a cutting board inside a baking tray so that when you cut the lobster up, you can reserve the lobster's juices. Tear the claws and knuckles off the body and then the tail. Cut the tail lengthwise in half (leave tail shell on, devein) and crack open the claws and knuckles to remove the meat. You may also use a rolling pin to extract the meat inside the walking legs. I also scoop out and use the roe if I'm lucky to have a female. Reserve any part of the shells that you like for garnish and pour the reserved juices of the lobster into a bowl.
3. Bring another pot of water to bowl and add salt. Add your Misko #5 pasta and cooking for 8-10 minutes.
4. In a sauce pan, add your butter and olive oil over medium heat and add your onions, garlic, carrot, celery and bay leaf and saute for about 5 minutes or until the onions are soft and translucent (do not burn). Add the tomato puree, tomato paste, reserved lobster juices and wine and bring to a boil and then reduce down to a simmer (medium-low heat). Simmer for 5-10 minutes or until you've achieved a thick, rich sauce.
5. Now add the Greek brandy and pieces of lobster into the sauce and stir to coat the lobster meat for a couple of minutes. Cover, take off the heat and keep warm. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and remove the bay leaf.
   
6. When your pasta is ready, drain and add to the lobster sauce along with your chopped fresh dill and pinch of ground cinnamon.
7. Carefully toss the the lobster and sauce to coat the pasta and serve immediately in a lobster bowl or platter. Drizzle with some extra-virgin olive oil and enjoy!
   

Grilled Chicken With Mustard (Ψητά κοτόπουλο με μουστάρδα)

A condiment that's been embraced by Greeks is mustard. I see it incorporated in dressings, sauces, on plates with meat or in this case - as part of a marinade.

The key to this marinade is good mustard. The mustard in Greece reminds one of a ballpark mustard but it is much milder, not as sharp nor as yellow.

I think the best way to describe it is a hybrid between a French Dijon and what we're used in North America (ballpark/hot dog mustard).

Choose any mustard you like and I'm sure this marinade will become a family favourite. Toronto's having a warm spell and the weather is prime for some more outdoor grilling.

I bought some wonderful boneless & skinless chicken breasts the other day and they were going to be my canvass for my marinade.

If you prefer other cuts of chicken - got for it. I too prefer legs and thighs but these breasts were had for a good deal and I wanted to really test this marinade on chicken breast (which needs all the flavour it can get).

This recipe is also versatile...the chicken gets seared then finished with indirect heat so outdoor grilling or cooking in the kitchen will both work here. If grilling (as I did)...sear the chicken on both sides, then finish off with indirect heat.

If you don't have a grill or it's too cold outside for you (pansies), sear your chicken with an indoor grilling skillet and finish off in the oven.

The final touch is basting your chicken with the reserved marinade you put aside when making the marinade.

Grilled Chicken With Mustard (Ψητά κοτόπουλο με μουστάρδα)
serves 4

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 cup sunflower oil
8 Tbsp. of mustard
2 tsp. sea salt
2 tsp. ground black pepper
4 Tbsp. honey
3 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tsp. dried Greek oregano
juice of 1 lemon

1. Rinse and pat-dry your chicken breasts. Place in a zip-lock bag & reserve. In a bowl, mix all of the marinade ingredients and whisk to emulsify. Adjust seasoning and marinade ingredients to your tastes. Pour half the marinade in the bag with the chicken and reserve the other half for basting later. Place your chicken in the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours. Bring back to room temperature before grilling.
2. Pre-heat your gas grill to a high heat. Brush the grill to remove any residue from your last grilling session. Using a some paper towel that's been doused in vegetable oil, brush/treat your grill surface with it to lubricate it (prevents sticking).
3. Wipe off the excess marinade from your chicken and discard the marinade in the bag (this will prevent sticking and burning).
4. Turn off the heat on one side of your grill and lace your chicken breasts on thehot side of the grill and sear both sides of your breasts for 2-3 minutes a side.
5. Place your chicken on the side of the grill with no heat and close the cover. Your chicken will now cook through using indirect heat.
6. Cook your chicken until the juices run clear or if using a meat thermometer, the internal temperature has reached 180F.
   
7. Take the chicken off the grill and brush the reserved marinade on both sides. Allow the chicken to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
8. Sprinkle dry Greek oregano over each breast, serve with some rice, grilled vegetables and a wedge of lemon.
   

Lia's Spinach Carbonara

With autumn taking a firm grip on the weather, thoughts and memories wander back to my summer vacation in Greece. There's Greek countryside, the sea, the people, friends and family.

Most of my mom's side of the family lives there and this is one of the important reasons why I go back to Greece as often as I do.

My first cousin Lia (see the resemblance) is also blessed with being raised and fed by a wonderful cook, my Theia (aunt) Angeliki (my mom's sister).

Each year I make my pilgrimage back to my parents' home town and I always stay at Lia's house. This year, my Theia Angeliki was at my family's summer home so, Lia was left with the cooking duties.

I arrived into Amynteo by train from Thessaloniki...just in time for lunch. Lia had prepared a surprising and delicious meal of Spinach Carbonara.

This is a such an easy and wonderful departure on the classic carbonara but it injects some hearty, healthy spinach into the mix (good way to sneak some greens in for your kids).

I've made this dish twice already...once using thawed frozen spinach and also with fresh baby spinach, wilted at the very end when tossing the sauce together. Either approach works wonderfully.

I'm delighted to share my cousin's recipe of Spinach Carbonara with you...it's quick, it's easy, it's filling and in a usual Kalofagas way, delicious!

Lia's Spinach Carbonara
(serves 4)

1 package (500gr.) dry linguine
12 strips of bacon
4 handfuls of thawed frozen spinach, squeezed of excess water
OR
6 cups of fresh baby spinach, rinsed & pat dry
4 eggs yolks
1/2 cup of heavy cream
1/2 cup grated Kefalotyri cheese
lots of cracked black pepper
4 cloves of garlic, smashed
1/2 cup of red onions, diced
1/4 cup dry white wine
some pasta water
some extra grated Kefalotyri (or Romano) cheese

1. Place a large pot of water on your stovetop and bring to a boil. Add a good amount of salt and cook your pasta as per package instructions. In a small bowl, whisk your egg yolks, cream, grated cheese and black pepper and set aside.
   
2. Chop your strips of bacon into bite-sized pieces and place in a large skillet. Add about a 1/3 cup of water and bring to a boil. The water will help render the fat in the bacon and eventually leave you with crispy bacon. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Remove excess bacon fat or add some olive oil if the skillet is too dry.
3. Add your onions and smashed garlic and saute for 2-3 minutes over medium-low heat while stirring. Now add the wine and keep on stirring to deglaze and release the brown bits from the bacon. Reduce until there's almost no liquid left, take off the heat and reserve.
4. As soon as your pasta is cooked, reserve some pasta water and drain the pasta. Add the pasta back into the skillet, along with the bacon, egg/cream mixture and your spinach. Begin tossing and folding the sauce into the pasta. If your sauce is too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water and continue to coat. Your sauce should cook and thicken from the residual heat of the pasta. If the sauce is too loose, place your skillet under very low-heat and keep tossing the sauce & the pasta until it thickens.
5. Plate the pasta with some more cracked black pepper and have some grated cheese available at the table.

Bougatsa (Μπουγάτσα)

Before I get on with showing you the dessert offering of Bougatsa for my Greek Thanksgiving, I should give you some background on this much-loved Greek breakfast treat.

Bougatsa is a pastry that consists of phyllo and it can contain a filling of cheese, spinach, spinach & cheese, ground meat or in this case, custard.

You can find Bougatsa all over Greece but Thessaloniki (second largest city in Greece) is the reputed Bougatsa capital of Greece.

There's the Bougatsa made in Crete and it's usually made with the use of Mizithra and you'll find shops offering up Bougatsa across Greece.

I first had Bougatsa as a child when my uncle, "Theo Mitso" brought me a small bag with an aromatic parcel and a chocolate milk for me.

My breakfasts in Greece were never the same after one first taste of Bougatsa.

When one goes to buy Bougatsa in Thessaloniki, finding a shop that sells them is real easy: look for the rush of people coming & coming in & out of the shop and usually one can smell the combo of baked pastry, Greek coffee and cinnamon in the air.

Bougatsa shops do most of their business in the mornings as that's when most of their Bougatsa is sold. There are two camps of Bougatsa fans: the savory lover and like myself, the sweet lover.

Know your order when in the shop. Simply ordering a "Bougatsa" will assure you of a question from the person behind the counter:

"You want Bougatsa with cheese, spinach, spinach & cheese, meat or cream"?

I always order "Bougatsa me krema"!

Upon hearing your order, the person will weigh your portion, place in some paper wrap and cut it into bite-sized squares. The Bougatsa is finished off with a generous shake of cinnamon and icing sugar.

Most take it "se paketo" or to-go but since I'm on holidays, I like to take a seat, enjoy my order of Bougatsa and people watch. The usual drink with Bougatsa is chocolate milk, frappe (ice coffee) or a Greek coffee.

That, my friends, is the inspiration to my dessert offering of Bougatsa for my Greek Thanksgiving dinner. I decided to make individual serving of Bougatsa and include some seasonal Greek ingredients in it...quince and almonds.

If you know your way around phyllo, this dessert is a cinch and it can be pre-made and frozen. For those not familiar with phyllo, buy it from a store that sells alot it...ensuring you get a fresh package that will allow you to work easily with it and save you from those phyllo nightmares.


Bougatsa With Quince and Almonds (Μπουγάτσα με κυδώνια και αμύγδαλα)
makes 12

2-3 quince, peeled, cored and sliced 2/3 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
3 cups of water

2 sticks of melted unsalted butter
3/4 cup fine semolina
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. orange zest
1 tsp. vanilla extract
couple of drops of vanilla extract
2 cups of whole milk
3/4 cup apple juice
24 sheets of phyllo dough
icing sugar
ground cinnamon

Pre-heated 350F oven

1. In a medium-sized pot, add your water, sugar cinnamon stick and cloves and heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the quinces. cover and simmer for 3o-40 minutes or until the slices are fork tender. Strain the quince, allow to cool and discard poaching liquid.
2. In a deep pot over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp. of melted butter and then add the semolina, sugar, zest, vanilla and a couple of drops of vanilla extract. Cook, stirring for a couple of minutes until the butter's absorbed and the semolina is golden but not browned.
3. While whisking, add the milk and apple juice in a steady stream until all the liquid is absorbed. Cook while stirring for 3-4 minutes, until the custard has the texture of loose cream of wheat. Transfer toa bowl and allow to cool.
4. Lay out your phyllo beside your work surface and cover it with a damp towel. Take a phyllo sheet and place it on your work surface. Drizzle the phyllo sheet with melted butter and now place another sheet on top and again, drizzle with melted butter.
5. Place a couple of heaping tablespoons of custard in the middle top third of your buttered phyllo sheets, about 2 inches from the top edge. Place some quince slices on top and press to flatten the custard a bit.
6. Fold over the top flap, then fold over the sides flaps. Now fold the phyllo package downwards towards you. Lightly brush both sides of the pie with melted butter and place on a baking sheet. Place some sliced almonds on the top middle of each pie. Repeat with remaining phyllo, custard and quince until you've made 12 pies.
7. If making ahead of time, cover the baking tray with a large bag (garbage bag) and place in the oven until you're going to bake the Bougatsa. You may bake from frozen into a pre-heated 350F oven and bake for approx 30 minutes or until golden OR
   if baking immediately, place in a pre-heated 350F oven and bake for 10-12 minutes or until golden.
8. Allow to cool a bit, plate and sprinkle a generous amount to icing sugar and ground cinnamon on top. Serve with a Greek coffee.

Roasted Acorn Squash With Meringue

It's that time again to reveal my contribution for this month's Royal Foodie Joust, hosted by Jenn the Leftover Queen.

Iron Chef has nothing on this competition. The Food Network challenge involves one secret ingredient whereas Joust participants must prep a dish using three ingredients, as chosen by the previous month's winner.

Last month's win was secured by Sticky, Creamy, Chewy with her Gorgonzola, fennel and pear tart. For this month's challenge, "Sticky" chose acorn squash, orange and sage as THE feature ingredients.

From the get-go, I knew this month's challenge would be tough...how does one combine orange and sage in either a savory or sweet dish? I got a headache, frustration and ultimately almost opted to not submit an entry...this combo is quite difficult.

I finally settle on prepping some acorn squash as a dessert. Many fall Sunday dinners include yams and sweet potatoes as a sweet side dish or as a dessert. I decided this was going to be direction to make my entry to.

What we have here is slices of acorn squash, poached then seasoned and baked in a fluffy dollop of meringue to offer up a different dessert that's easy to prepare and a sexy dessert for presentation.


Roasted Acorn Squash With Meringue
(for four)

1 acorn squash, quartered and seeded
1 1/2 cups of water
1 1/2 cups of orange juice
1/2 cup sugar
3 egg whites
cream of tartar
Aprrox. 100gr. icing sugar
4 Tbsp. brown sugar
2 tsp. fresh sage, finely chopped
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
2 tsp. ground anise seeds
some melted butter

Pre-heated 400F oven

1. Place a pot on your stove-top large enough to hold all the squash quarters. Fill with orange juice, water and sugar and bring to a boil. Poach your squash for about 10-15 minutes, until almost fork tender (squash will finish cooking in the oven). Remove the squash from the liquid and place in cold water to stop the cooking process. Pat dry and reserve.
2. In a small bowl, mix your brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, sage and ground anise and reserve. Now brush your squash quarters with melted butter and sprinkle the sugar & spice mixture all over the flesh of the squash. Place on a baking sheet and reserve.
3. Using a clean bowl, add your egg whites and some cream of tarter and beat your egg whites with a hand mixer for a couple of minutes or until it starts to stiffen. Add your icing sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks are formed.
4. Place dollops of meringue on top of each squash quarter and bake on the middle rack of your oven for 5-10 minutes or until meringue is golden brown.
5. Serve immediately.