Grandma's Pork & Quince (Χοιρινό & Κυδώνια της Γιαγιάς)

My relatives can be divided into two camps: the father's side of the family and the mother's side. The two camps are also geographically divided with all of my dad's side of the family residing here in Canada and save for two of my mom's first cousins here in Canada, the rest of her family reside in Greece.

Many friends have asked why I go to Greece so often, is their not a whole other world out there to explore and enjoy? My obvious answer is "yes" BUT...I always remind them that I have aunts and uncles, dozens of cousins, friends and friends of the family and for a long time, maternal grandparents. It's important for me to stay connected with them.

My mom's parents have both since passed on but memories of them are triggered each time I go to Greece and I always visit the cemetary to light a candle for them.

My maternal grandmother's(yiayia) name was Agape, translated litterally as "love". What woman would marry at a young age, bear five children, embrace grandparents in the household, be the CEO of a household that had nine hungry mouths and manage sneak away some food to some less fortunate and starving relatives?

Only a lady with the name of Agape.

Having found a good and reliable source of quince this past autumn, my mom recalled a dish her mother (my yiayia Agape) would make during the winter months. My parents both also recall the annual slaughtering of the pigs for the winter and pork (like in much of the word) would get paired with fruits.

This dish comes from mom's memories as a child and this dish of pork & quince is one of those food memories. Basically you have paillards of pork meat that rolled around good slices of quince and placed over a bed of potatoes and quince and tossed in olive oil plus the zest and juice of one orange.

I was skeptical as to how tasty the resulting dish would taste like but that eroded to expose a roast that was aromatic, easy on the eye and absolutely delicious.

If you can still find some quince in your neck of the woods, give this bake a try...it's easy, it's old school Greek and it tastes delicious.

This dish brought back many fond memories of my yiayia Agape and for me, food and aromas transports me, triggers memories. I hope this dish does the same for you.

Grandma's Pork & Quinces (Χοιρινό & Κυδώνια της Γιαγιάς)
(serves 6)

1 1/2 of lean bonless pork (loin, or leg)
12 medium to large Russet or other baking potatoes
1/3 cup of olive oil
4 quinces
zest and juice of 1 orange
salt and pepper to taste
toothpicks

Pre-heated 450F oven

1. To slice your pork thinly, place the piece of meat in the freezer for about 30 minutes to harden. Cut thin slices of pork, say about 3-4 per person and place each piece between plastic wrap and pound out into paillards (cutlets). Reserve.
   
2. Peel and cut your potatoes into uniform sizes and place in the roasting pan. Peel and core your quinces. Two quinces should be cut up into chunks that are the size of the potatoes and the other two quince should be cut up into 1/2cm slices that can fit and rolled into the pork paillards (cutlets).
3. Pour the olive oil over the potatoes and quince, add the zest and juice of one orange and preheat your oven. Season with salt and pepper and toss to evenly coat the potatoes and quince. Taste the oil in the pan to check and adjust seasoning accordingly.
   
4. Assemble your pork and quince rolls by laying out a pork cutlet, lightly season the inside with salt and pepper and place a slice of quince at one of the cutlet. Roll the pork around the quince (snugly) and afix with a toothpick. Continue assembling your pork and quick rolls until all the pork has been rolled. If there's any pieces of quince left, toss them in the roasting pan with the potatoes and quince.
5. Lightly season the outside of your pork and quince roll-ups and place on the bed of potatoes and quince. Place in your pre-heated oven for 30 minutes and then take out the baking dish and flip the pork-rolls so that the underside also cooks to a nice deep-brown colour. Reduce the oven's temperature to 400f and continue to roast for another 15-20 minutes or until the the potatoes are fork-tender.
6. Serve each plate with a pile of potatoes and quince, drizzle some extra-virgin olive oil and serve with a winter green salad.

If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at http://kalofagas.blogspot.com then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author. © 2007-2009 Peter Minakis

Slow Prime Rib

Another Christmas has come and gone. I hope all of you had a restful day, nothing too stressed, few family arguments, much laughter and memorable moments.

I spent my day with my immediate family and we enjoyed a classic Prime Rib Roast with the usual fixins' and some Greek touches.

For as long as I can remember, I've been doing Prime Rib as instructed by my father and his years of wisdom working in the restaurant industry.

My Pops & I have these "debates" about how to approach a dish or while watching a cooking show "if this dish goes with that ingredient".

Can you say generation gap?

Pops usual line is, "when I was working in the restaurant we NEVER did that, we would do it.....blah-blah-blah".

Yesterday, I had to keep him far away from the stove as the Prime Rib was roasting. You see, my dad likes to sneak into the kitchen and peak at what's being cooked and sometimes he make "adjustments" to a meal.

It could be anywhere from turning up or lowering heat, uncovering a simmering pot or opening an oven to check on a cake (Shreek)!

Prime Rib is one of those dishes whereby one always seeks to improve or perfect this wonderful, satisfying Sunday (or holiday) meal.

My inspiration for my Quantum Leap in Prime Rib came from recently watching an episode of Foodies, as shown here in Canada.

The hostess Lesia recently did her own Prime Rib and she too joined the chorus of those who prefer low & slow cooking.

I've read a myriad of methods or roasting Prime Rib, most divided into two camps: low and slow or fast & high heat. Oh there are cooks who combine a bit of both methods and I'd say I fall in the middle too.

You see, I'm still not convinced that roasting a Prime Rib entirely at 280F will give me a deep-brown Prime Rib that's juicy and cooked to perfection in the middle. During my Prime Rib experimentations, I've ended up with a Roast that ends up "Mcdonald's grey"...not a turn-on.

So, until I see or taste a better Prime Rib, I'm now going to go with this approach: a blast of high heat and then lower your oven for a slow gentle roast of your Prime Rib.

In my opinion, part of being a good cook (and offering delicious food) is to be pragmatic, not to be a 'know it all' and keep an open mind about improving upon family favourites. Pride has no room in the foodie's kitchen.

It's all about the "pursuit of delicious food", right?

Prime Rib Roast au Jus With Yorkshire Pudding

1 Prime Rib Roast, cap on - bone in
sea salt
black pepper
garlic powder
onion powder
1 tsp. of chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. of fresh thyme

Yorkshire Pudding
(makes 12)
4 eggs
2 cups of milk
2 cups of all-purpose flour
1 tsp. of salt
beef drippings
1 muffin tray

1. Ensure that the Prime Rib has been brough to room temperature before roasting. Season the cap only (not sides) of your beef with the salt, pepper, garlic and onion powders and rosemary and thyme. Pre-heat your oven to 500F and set the rack in the middle position (ensure an evenly cooked roast).
2. Insert a meat thermometer into the top of the roast, right in the center. Place your roast in the oven and turn the oven light on. Keep the oven closed (some smoking will occur) and watch for the moment when your roast turns a deep brown colour (20-30 minutes).
   
3. Once your roast has achieved that deep-brown colour, reduce the oven's temperature to 260F. About an hour into roasting, add enough hot water to just cover the rib bones at the base (this will create your roast beef jus).
   
4. Allow the roast to cook until the thermometer has reached an internal temperature of 130F for rare, 150F for medium-rare and 170F for medium-well.
5. Carefully take your roast out of the pan and place on a large plate/platter and tent with foil. Allow to rest for 50-60 minutes (don't worry, the meat will still be warm at service).
6. Use this time to make your jus and Yorkishire Puddings. Pour the beef drippings from the roasting pan into a fat separator and reserve the separated beef jus and fat (separately).
7. Drop 1 Tbsp. of beef drippings into each muffin cup and pre-heat your oven to 400F. Add your flour and salt in one bowl and your eggs & milk in another bowl. Whisk the wet ingredients to blend and then whisk dry ingredients into wet and set aside.
8. When your oven has reached 400F, place your muffin tray on the middle rack of the oven for 5 minutes. Remove the muffin tin and pour equal amounts of Yorkshire batter into each muffin cup. Bake for 30 minutes or until the Puddings have puffed up to a lovely golden brown. Remove from the oven and serve in a basket at your dinner table.
9. Pour the beef jus into a pot and add 2-3 bay leaves anf bring to a boil. Taste for to adjust seasoning (add water if too salty or add some beef base or boullion to enhance) and reduce by a third. Keep warm until dinner service and remove bay leaves.
   
10. To carve your Prime Rib, cut off the butcher's twine and place the roast upright on it's side to expose the rib bones vertically. Secure the roast with a fork and cut off the rib bones and reserve for making beef stock and a Beef Barley Soup.
11. Now flip the roast back to it's natural sitting position and remove the fatty cap. Carve your slices of beef and arrange on a platter. Serve with Yorkshire Pudding and the gravy boats full of jus.
    

Oven Baked Sole With Chickpeas

One of the facets of Greek cooking that I love is that it's so versatile. It touches upon vegetables, fruits, poultry, meats and mince, seafood, legumes, grains and pasta.

Greek food relies on herbs to flavour dishes, and an array of spices. Greek food can be complex and it can be easy.

This fish dish is a perfect of example of quality ingredients, prepared simply to highlight the freshness and to maximize flavour.

Today, I'm giving you more tastes of the Aegean, in particular the Cycladic islands of Syros and Sifnos. Syros is an island I've visited in previous travels to Greece and Sifnos was most recently visited this past summer.

This recipe for baked sole comes from Syros and the feature fish is sole, seasoned and baked simply with olive oil, lemon juice, Capers and dill.

The side dish highlights Sifnos' beloved use of chickpeas and here, I've baked them with bay, onions, garlic and cherry tomatoes.

This combo makes a perfect weeknight dish as the ingredients are readily available at the market.

The prep is quick, both main and side dish can be thrown in the oven.
Go change into something more comfortable, open the mail, open a bottle of wine and set the table.

Now your oven baked sole with chick peas is ready to be served. Don't hesitate to break some crusty bread and mop-up the olive oil and sauce in your plate.

Oven Baked Sole
(serves 4)

4 fillets of sole
1/2 cup olive oil
4 Tbsp. of capers, drained
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
salt and pepper

Baked Chickpeas
1 can of chickpeas, drained
1/3 cup water
1 medium onion, sliced
1/2 pint of cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heated 375F oven

1. Rinse and pat-dry your fillets. Thirty minutes before baking, season the fillets with salt and let them sit.
2. For the Baked Chickpeas, in a baking vessel, add all the chickpeas ingredients together and toss well. Place in the oven and they should take about 1 hour and be ready when you fillets of sole are also done.
   
3. Place your fillets on an oiled baking sheet, pour the oil, lemon juice, dill and capers over the fillets. Bake for 30 minutes and serve warm with a lemon wedge.

Thanksgivin' Fixins'

One of the great things about hosting a special meal is that attention to the side dishes is given and people always talk & ask about those recipes.

"What's in the potatoes? How did you make the sauce? What spices did you use?"

All those questions will be answered here.

First up was the mashed celery root and potatoes with butter milk and thyme. Celery root is a vegetable used alot in Europe and from speaking to relatives, it's enjoyed in the winter by Greeks as well.

When considering using celery root in mashed form, you have to add some starch, otherwise the dish will just be runny. Potatoes come to the rescue, acting as the binder, a whole head of roasted garlic heightens the dish, butter milk (another Greek favourite) gives the dish a tangy bottom and fresh thyme and chives round out the flavour.

The other side dish that figured prominently in the dinner was the roasted root vegetables. Your choice of vegetables is according to your tastes but I chose a mix of butternut squash, carrots, turnips and parsnips with some baby onions to finish the mix.

The key to this dish was the fresh sage and spices. I used my coffee, er spice grinder to help create a blend of fennel seeds, cinnamon nutmeg and then added the chopped fresh sage.

I tossed the veggies in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and tossed the spices to coat all the veggies.

Besides the aroma of the roasting turkey, the smell of these root vegetables roasting away in a blanket of aromatic spices had my guests entering the kitchen and eventually, tasting the piping hot root vegetables...they smelled & tasted that good!

Finally, what's a Thanksgiving without cranberry sauce? Cranberries are native to North America but here I injected some Greek ingredients in keeping with the Hellenic theme.

Making your own cranberry sauce is easy. One only has to add some liquid (I used orange juice), some sugar, orange zest and I spiked it with grated ginger and a pinch of ground cloves.

The aroma and flavour kept my guests guessing and this sauce was a natural pairing with the roasted turkey.

Stay tuned, tomorrow I'll present the Bougatsa with poached quince and almonds.

Stuffed Turkey (Γαλοπούλα γεμιστή)

Here's the Main Event folks, the stuffed turkey.

I've been a big fan of brining a turkey for over a decade now. Oh, I'm sure you all have your favourite way of doing it but out there is an equal amount of people who fear, dread or avoid turkey. Usually because it ends up dry.

Brining a turkey is simply allow the bird to steep overnight (24 hrs.) in a salt water solution. What's happening here? Much like when you eat salty things, your body craves water. That's what's happening to the turkey - it's taking in moisture (water).

I've gone beyond my usual salt & water brine here and I've added some aromatics to make this turkey somethin' special for the Greek-themed Thanksgiving.

Another change I made was in how I roasted the turkey. Although I didn't use a Butterball turkey, I did refer to their website for their roasting calculator and I picked up a great roasting tip:

Roast the turkey uncovered at 325F only cover the turkey with aluminum foil after you've achieved it's desired colour. I've always done the reverse (cover for duration of roasting & uncover to brown at the end), but this Butterball method gave me a picture-perfect, moist and succulent turkey.

The other component of the turkey was the Greek stuffing. Greeks do enjoy roasting a turkey but it's usually done during the Christmas holidays. I had a wealth of reference points for a Greek stuffing and I settled on a classic which used ground meat, minced giblets, raisins, chestnuts and pine nuts.

The turkey and stuffing were an obvious hit. My guests had never seen a beautifully roasted bird before and I must admit, this one turned out pretty damn good!

The stuffing was savory with a little but of sweetness from the raisins, chestnuts and pine nuts. I don't have a decent photo of the stuffing but I can assure you my guests and myself enjoyed it alot.

Again, I was able to find a Greek wine as a pairing for the main course of the evening. Alex Pulcini of Pavlou Estates Winery recommended the Kappa P62 Xinomavro-Syrah as his choice for this turkey. I described the flavours the turkey would have and that this would be much more falvourful, aromatic and tolerant of a red wine.

Alex recommended this wine as it's a people pleaser, seems to be very popular with white and red drinkers and this wine has obvious notes of black cherry.

The P62 bottles I served did not last and I wish I had more...my guests wished they had more! I'm delighted to share with you that we collectively will be buying another case of the P62.

Earlier this year during my vacation to Greece, I was fortunate enough to enjoy a tour of the Pavlou Estates Winery (watch for my post on the winery tour, the people who make it and the wine).

Stuffed Turkey (Γαλοπούλα γεμιστή)

Brining Solution

3 bay leaves
handful of peppercorns
3 cloves of garlic
a bunch of fresh thyme
small handful of parsley
1/2 cup of Mosxato wine
handful of allspice berries
1/2 cup of orange juice
1 cup of salt
enough water to cover the turkey

Roasted Turkey
1 large turkey (5.7kgs) feeds 10
melted butter
sea salt pepper
sweet paprika
black pepper
garlic powder
combination of dried thyme, oregano and rosemary

Pre-heated 325F oven

1. To brine your turkey, you will need a large, clean pail or a large pot. Place your turkey inside and add enough water to cover the bird. Now the remove the bird and add the wine, orange juice, aromatics and the salt. Now place the container on your stove and bring the brining solution to a boil. Allow to cool before placing the turkey inside the brine. Palce the cover on and refrigerate or place outside (if cold enough for approx. 24 hours).
2. Between now and roasting the turkey, you may pre-make your stuffing (recipe below).
   
3. The next day, 1 hour before roasting, remove the turkey from the brine and rinse well and pat dry. Pre-heat your oven to 325F. Discard the brine.
   
4. Ensure your pre-made stuffing has also come to room temperature before spooning it into the cavity of the turkey. Have ready two containers of stuffing ready: one large portion with an approx. amount you think you'll require to stuff the bird and a back-up portion to replenish it (this helps eliminate cross-contamination to any leftover stuffing that does not fit in the turkey).
5. Spoon the stuffing into the main cavity and stitch with some wooden skewers to seal. Now place some stuffing in the neck area of the turkey as well (that's what all that excess neck skin is for...stuffing). Again, stitch with some wooden skewers to seal in the stuffing.
6. Place your turkey on a roasting rack and rub it all over with melted butter. Seasoning your turkey with a Mediterranean dried herb mix (I used oregano, thyme and rosemary, sea salt, black pepper, sweet paprika and garlic powder.
   
7. Place the roasting rack & turkey onto a roasting pan and add an onion, carrot and celery stick in the bottom of the pan with some water and a splash of wine. Place your turkey on the middle rack of the oven and roast for 3 1/2 hours. Monitor your turkey after about 2 hours to check for it's colour. When the desired browning has occured, tent your turkey with aluminum foil and continue to roast until the thigh meat has reached 180F (using a thermometer) and 160F in the stuffing.

Greek Turkey Stuffing

1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, diced
1 stalk of celery, diced
3 cloves of garlic, minced
3 pork sausages, casings removed
1/2 lb. lean ground pork
1 packet of turkey giblets, finely chopped
1 bay leaf 1 tsp. dry oregano
3/4 cup long grain rice
1/4 cup wild rice
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup of Mosxato wine
1/2 cup of raisins
1 1/2 cups of turkey/vegetable stock
1 cup of chestnuts, chopped
1/2 cup of pine nuts
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh sage
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. ground clove

1. In a large skillet, add your olive oil over medium heat and add your onions, garlic, celery, bay leaf and saute for about 10 minutes to soften. Now add your giblets and saute for a minute or so, followed by adding the sausage meat and ground pork. Turn the heat up and brown your meat while stirring constantly.
2. Now add rice and stir to coat and toast the rice for a couple of minutes. Now add the wine and raisins and reduce to medium-low and simmer while stirring for a couple of minutes.
3. Now add the stock, bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer while stirring and most of the liquid has been absorbed by the rice. Your rice should be just under '"al dente" and it will finish cooking as stuffing in the turkey.
4. Now add the chopped parsley, chopped chestnuts, sage and stir it. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and take off the heat. Add the pine nuts and a pinch of ground cloves and stir in. Allow to come to room temperature before placing the stuffing in the turkey (you may place in a container and refrigerate overnight).
   

Papia Portokali (παπια πορτοκαλί)

Greece's cuisine also has a good roster of wild game recipes and one of the more universally enjoyed meats has to be duck.

A couple of weeks ago I seared some breasts that I carved from a whole duck. I was left with a carcass, wings, duck fat and duck legs.

When one has duck legs, it's confit time. Confit comes from the French word (to preserve) and this method of immersing a food in a substance for both flavour and preservation has ended up being a favoured method of enjoying duck legs.

To confit duck legs traditionally, one must brine or marinate the duck legs overnight, then slowly poach the duck legs in reserved duck fat.

I was prepared to go through the whole process but Jerry's (Cooking by the Seat of my Pants) quick and successful approach to confit saves time and offers instant food gratification.

Jerry's approach is simple: season your duck legs with salt, pepper and herbs of your choice (I used springs of thyme and rosemary), drizzle with olive and add a splash of stock and roast in low-heat oven for an 60-80 minutes (mine took 80), then increase the heat to 350F and roast until your duck legs are golden brown.

Jerry made a confit of chicken on a bed of spaghetti and I urge you have a look at his recipe and even delve further into the blog for more food inspiration.

Back to my duck legs. The title of this dish is Papia Portokali...or Duck a l'Orange. The French are well known for this classic but the Greeks have their own version that's true to our indigenous ingredients.

Papia Portokali shouldn't intimidate you. It's sounds elegant, has that rustic/chic look and above all, tastes fantastic.

Here are the steps needed to bring this fabulous fall/winter dish together:

• prepare your duck confit
• mise en place (organize and prep your ingredients)
• braise the accompanying lentils
• steep the raisins in orange juice mixture
• saute and reduce onions and orange sauce
• finish duck & orange sauce in the oven

Let's make some Papia Portokaki!


Papia Portokali (παπια πορτοκαλί)
(serves 4)

4 legs of duck confit (see Jerry's method here)
6 oranges
1 cup of chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup orange liqueur
2 medium onions, diced
1/2 cup raisins
3 Tbsp. Balsamic vinegar
4-5 allspice berries
3 Tbsp. olive oil + 1/4 cup to saute onions
2 sprigs of thyme
1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Braised Lentils
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
½ cup chopped celery
3 cloves of minced garlic
1½ cups of lentils
1 bay leaf
3 1/2 cups of vegetable or chicken stock
1/2 cup vegetable cocktail (V8)
1 tsp. balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. dried oregano
salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heated 375F oven

1. Place oil in a pot over medium heat. Add onion, celery and garlic. Sauté until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add lentils and sauté for 1 minute. Add bay leaf and stock. Bring to boil, cover and simmer until lentils are cooked, about 35 to 40 minutes. Uncover pot for last 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain off any excess liquid. Remove bay leaf, stir in organo and balsamic viengar and adjust seasoning. Reserve lentils.
2. Into a bowl, squeeze the juice of 2 oranges and add the 3 Tbsp. of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, honey, allspice berries and raisins and allow to steep for at least 20 minutes.
3. With the remaining oranges, trim the peel off and cut into horizontal slices and reserve.
4. In a large oven-proof skillet, add the olive oil over medium-low heat and saute your onions for about 10 minutes. Now add your mixture of orange juice and raisins in along with the stock, liqueur(pour from a cup - NOT bottle) and bring up to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and add your thyme sprigs and rosemary. Reduce the liquid by half or until it's thickened.
   
5. Arrange your orange slices to one side of the skillet and place the duck legs on the other. Place into your preheated oven for 15-20 minutes.
6. Spoon a bed of braised lentils onto each plate and lay a duck leg on top with some orange slices to the side. Spoon some orange sauce over each duck leg, garnish with fresh chopped parsley and serve immediately.

Back in Black

Today, I'm cooking with a black ingredient, a new ingredient. I'm talking about black trumpet mushrooms.

The black trumpet is a Chanterelle mushroom and although you may not find them fresh at your market, one can easily find the dried variety (which I bought at my local Asian store).

I don't think I've ever cooked with a black ingredient before...I've burned things to a charred crisp but never have started out with something black.

Speaking of black, who likes AC/DC? After a long hiatus, they are on tour again and my friends and myself will be going to see these rock legends when they come to Toronto in October. Check your local listings to see when they'll be hitting your town.

In the meantime, here's some AC/DC to get you warmed up for their concert and for my "cooking in black" session...


Are you done head bangin'? Are you hungry? Are you ready to Eat to the Beat?

My friend Elly at Elly Says Opa holds a quarterly blogging event where you can write about a dish tied to or inspired by music. If you have a dish and tune in mind, you have until the end of the month to squeeze in an entry.

My entry is a Charred and Roasted Pork Tenderloin with a Black Trumpet Emulsion. In plain English you might be thinking?

I blitzed a mixture in my mini-food processor with dried Black Trumpets along with some herbs and even a touch of sugar (helped with the charring processs). The pork tenderloin then got seared in a skillet and finished off in the oven to a juicy finish.

Not satisfied with the use of Black Trumpets? They get simmered down and whizzed into a emulsion or sauce that's poured over the moist pork tenderloin.

This dish was not too difficult, the result surprised both myself and my brother and it was great to enjoy a recipe from a local, well-known Canadian chef, Michael Bonacini.

To accompany Bonacini's pork tenderloin, I made a Potato & Fennel Gratin and I pan-seared some boy choy.

The final meal was outstanding...fall ingredients, seasonal and a delicious foray into the beginning of autumn. I learned about a new ingredient (Black Trumpets), found out that I liked fennel alot and discovered bok choy is a quick, easy and health vegetable to serve up at the table.

Charred & Roasted Pork Tenderloin With a Black Trumpet Emulsion
(from Michael Bonacini)
serves 4

The Rub
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
3/4 tsp coriander seed
1 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tsp granulated sugar
1 Tbsp dried black trumpet mushrooms
2 pork tenderloins

Black Trumpet Emulsion
2 shallots, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. of butter
3/4 cup of black trumpet mushrooms
(1/3 cup if dried, rehydrate in boiling hot water for 10 minutes)
3/4 cup of chicken stock
Salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. heavy cream

1. Add black peppercorns, coriander seeds, salt, granulated sugar and trumpet mushrooms to a spice grinder or coffee grinder. Grind spice mixture to a fine sandy texture. Alternatively, grind the spices using a mortar and pestle, but the final texture of the rub will be coarse. This seasoning rub can be kept in an airtight container for up to three months.
2. Thoroughly rub the pork tenderloin with generous amounts of the seasoning rub. Let sit for 20 to 30 minutes so the flavours penetrate the pork.
3. Preheat oven to 400 to 425 degrees F.
4. Heat a large heavy-bottomed frying pan (with oven proof handles) over medium high heat. Add a splash of canola oil and a good knob of butter. Sear the pork tenderloins in the pan, turning from time to time so pork browns evenly on all sides. Transfer to oven cook pork until just cooked to a pink and tender stage, about 6 to 8 minutes. Let rest 8 to 10 minutes, keeping warm.
5. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add butter, shallots and garlic. Gently cook until the shallots are soft. Add the black trumpets, cook lightly for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Reduce mixture by about 1/3.
6. Transfer to a food blender and puree until smooth, about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer back to the saucepan and bring back to a simmer. Add the cream and the last of the butter. Then using a small hand blender, aerate the sauce to create a light, foamy, very creamy and velvety emulsion. Adjust the seasoning if needed and serve.

Crispy Roast Chicken With Tarragon and Lemon Verbena

Guys are bad with remembering dates, birthdays or anniversaries. Our agenda books are our lifeline.

I'm pretty good with remembering events in my life through a song on the radio, a smell, a meal or just a vibe. I get sentimental about vacations, friends & good times of yore, concerts and the dearly departed grandparents.

I just realized that I've been cigarette-free for two years! Oh, I smoke the odd cigar or cigarillo but I don't inhale (Clinton coached me well).

I don't think I can go back to cigarettes. I'm tasting things again as they should be, without the ashtray breath.

I can taste this fantastic new Greek dish. This is another recipe from the Greek food mag "Gastronomos" and the dish is the creation of Myrsini Lambraki.

It's a roast chicken of tarragon and lemon verbena, both herbs are found in Greece but only now are they a part of the awakening of Nouveau Greek Cuisine.

This dish is rustic, not the Kolonaki-snot-nosed chef style of Greek cooking that tries to be French. Once again, Greek cuisine should about using the ingredients that are at hand in the land and utilizing traditional Greek cooking techniques in new dishes.

I think this roast chicken fits that bill. For those not familiar with lemon verbena, it's a shrub tree that has aromatic leaves that give off a sweet, lemon aroma. Up until this time, I've only enjoyed lemon verbena as a tea or a Mojito.

When this chicken was roasting, the aromas were dreamy. I was like a giddy child impatiently waiting to open his Christmas presents. As always, if you can't find fresh herbs, use half the amount with the dried kind.

Crispy Roast Chicken With Tarragon and Lemon Verbena

1 whole roaster chicken
1/2 small lemon
2 1/2 Tbsp. fresh tarragon
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon verbena, chopped
1 clove of garlic, smashed
1 clove of garlic, minced
approx. 1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup dry white wine
salt and pepper
1 Tbsp. corn starch
1 tsp. water

Preheated 400F oven, approx cook time 90 minutes

1. Rinse and pat-dry your chicken. In a bowl, add your olive oil, minced garlic, tarragon and lemon verbena and reserve.
2. Insert a smashed clove of garlic, along with the 1/2 lemon, some of the herbs and truss (tie your chicken).
3. Rub the herb/oil mixture all over the bird and then season with sea salt and ground black pepper.
4. Place in a roasting pan with a grate, so that the chicken is suspended over the drippings. Pour about 1/2 cup of water in the pan to prevent burning.
5. Roast uncovered for 30 minutes or until the chicken has achieved a golden-brown, crispy colour.
6. Reduce the oven heat to 375F roast for another half hour and replenish water if need be in the pan.
   
7. For the last half hour, take the chicken out of the oven and using a large fork or tongs, carefully pick up the chicken and tilt to empty the juices that have amassed in the cavity (important as this will make your sauce). Place the chicken back in the oven and roast until the juices run clear.
8. Remove the chicken from the roasting pan and allow to rest before carving .
9. Remove the grate and place the roasting pan on the stove top and pour in your wine and deglaze the drippings from the chicken. Adjust seasoning and add your corn starch slurry to thicken the sauce.
10. Carve your chicken and pour over the pan sauce on the chicken.
    

Roasted Loin of Pork With a Fennel Seed Crust

I tried this dish a few years ago. I was trying to impress my cousin's wife who is German and she knows a thing or two about roast pork. I had her Sunday roast pork with gravy, potatoes and braised purple cabbage. She impressed me!

I have found that fennel seeds really complement the taste of pork meat. Fennel seeds aren't used as much as other spices but they should!

Fennel seeds are native to the Mediterranean and also found in Asia (especially India). It has a licorice like flavour, similar to anise but slightly different.

In India, fennel seeds are often chewed after dinner as a breath freshener. In ancient Greek, fennel was called marathon (μάραθον).

Fennel seeds often provide quick and effective relief from gas, cramps and indigestion.

I'm offering this post for this week's edition of Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted by Vani at Batasari.

The hostess Vani will soon provide the readers with a "round up" of all the recipes, stories and information provided by many bloggers like me.

What happened to that pork? Oh yeah...no leftovers is what happened! My trusted meat thermometer worked like a charm, leaving me with a moist and tender roast loin of pork.

Roast Loin of Pork With a Fennel Seed Crust
(feeds 6)

1 loin of pork (I used boneless, 8lbs)
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp garlic powder
2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp. fennel seeds + 2 tsp. fennel seeds for topping
1 medium onion, grated
1 tsp ground pepper
coarse sea salt
cracked black pepper
Preheated 425F oven

1. Rinse and pat-dry your pork loin. In a bowl, mix your grated onion, mustard, garlic powder, thyme, fennel seeds and ground pepper. Rub the pork thoroughly with the marinade and refrigerate for 2-3 hours. Bring back to room temperature before roasting.
2. Place the pork loin in a roasting pan, fat side up. Generously sprinkle coarse salt and cracked black pepper only on the top part of the loin. Sprinkle some more fennel seeds on top.
3. Roast in the oven uncovered for 40 minutes (at 425F) and then reduce the heat to 375F and add a cup of water to the bottom of the pan to prevent burning.
   
4. Cook until the internal temperature of the pork has reached 170F. Remove the roast from the pan and let stand for 15-20 minutes before carving. Time to make your gravy.

Pork-Apple Gravy

1 cup of pork jus, skimmed, deglazed and strained from the pan
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable stock
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. butter
1/2 cup apple juice
salt and pepper to taste

1. Skim the fat from the roasting pan and discard. Place the pan on a burner and add your water to deglaze. Scrape the pan to loosen the brown bits. Strain and reserve in a cup.
2. In a medium sized saucepan, add your butter and flour and cook your flour while stirring under medium heat for 5 minutes.
3. Add your pork jus, stock and apple juice and simmer while stirring. Reduce until you've achieved your desired thickness. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
4. Serve over your pork and mashed potatoes.
   

Prime Rib of Beef

This is hands down one of my most enjoyable meals to make and eat. As you know, many restaurants were owned/operated by Greek immigrants to the West and a staple of any good restaurant was Prime Rib of Beef.

My dad operated such a restaurant for years and the Prime Rib was no doubt the "show stopper".

Before I go on with the beef, please remember this recipe works only with Prime Rib which is a more expensive cut. This method will not work with regular roast beef.

Secondly, choose a Prime Rib that has a "cap" attached. The cap is a fatty piece of meat that covers the top part of the Prime Rib (secured with butcher's twine).

Thirdly, invest in a meat thermometer. This is the sure-fire way to get the desired doneness of your meat.

Finally, only season the cap (top). The seasoning will drip down the sides of meat as the fatty cap renders. This is where the flavour comes from.

Prime Rib of Beef

Preheat your oven to 450F
1 standing Prime Rib roast, bone in and with cap
salt
pepper
garlic powder

1. Pat dry your beef. Generously season the cap only (not the sides) with salt, pepper and garlic powder.
2. Place a meat thermometer into the center of the meat, entering through the cap.
3. Places your beef (rib side down) in a large roasting pan (middle rack) and roast for 1 hour or until the entire piece of meat has achieved it's dark brown colour.
4. Remove the roast and pour 3 cups of water into the bottom of the roasting pan (or just halfway covering the rib bones).
5. Turn the heat down to 400F and roast until the internal temperature has reached 135F.
6. Remove the roast, cover with foil and allow the meat to rest for 30 minutes before carving.
7. You may now make your Jus.
   

Roast Beef Jus

1. Skim the fat from the "jus" in the bottom of the roasting pan (I use a fat separater).
2. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up the brown bits and stir until there's very little (if any) left on the bottom of the pan.
3. Add 3 bay leaves and bring to a boil. Taste for seasoning. Sometimes the jus can be salty, so add some water or sometimes it's too weak, then just add some beef base.
4. Lower the heat to a medium simmer and reduce to half.
5. Using a strainer, pour the jus through to a medium-sized sauce pan.